After all the lacquer was removed with wire wool, the next step was to construct each section in order.
Firstly, I cut a groove with a saw along each side of the main ‘bulb’ section. Once happy that they looked like the component was made in two parts, I marked and drilled 14 holes each side along the lines.The next step was to solder the tapered part of the body (muzzle section) to the bulb part. I could then solder-in 28 x 1/8” x 3/8” copper dome-headed rivets. This gave the appearance of the section being two-part and riveted together.
Keeping the tension in the rod taught, short bursts of the drill will twist the rod. Cut this into lengths required and solder-on a brass ball terminal on one end of each rod. These were then positioned and soldered into place along the ‘barrel’ between the flared sections. Once completed, this part was then soldered on to the main body assembly.
Lastly, the threaded adjuster knob was added to the top of the gun and the trigger added. The trigger was shaped from another small piece of brass sconce, into which I drilled 5 x 2.5mm holes. The terminal expansion was drilled to 1/8” and countersunk on both sides. This was completed by riveting-in a small section of 1/8” copper rod as an inset.
From start to finish – approximately two day’s work.